The Homesteader’s Pig Feeding Bible: What to Feed and What to Forget

Howdy y’all, and welcome back to the barn. If you’ve ever stood at the fence with a bucket of scraps, worryin’ if you’re about to make your hog sick or slow his growth, I know the feeling. Your pigs can safely eat a mighty wide variety of foods, from garden surplus to dairy whey, but the cornerstone of every successful diet is a balanced, protein-complete ration that makes up at least half of what they consume. I learned this the hard way years ago when I tried to raise a pair of Berkshires on nothing but corn and pumpkins; they ate heartily but didn’t gain like they ought to, teaching me that variety isn’t a luxury-it’s a requirement.

What you’ll need:

• A quality commercial hog feed or a proven homemade mix (aim for 14-18% protein for growers)
• A dedicated container for collecting kitchen and garden scraps
• A good waterer that provides constant, clean access
• A keen eye for observing your herd’s condition and appetite

Let’s walk through this together, and I promise you’ll have a simple, thrifty feeding system squared away before the sun gets much higher.

The Building Blocks of a Healthy Swine Diet

Feeding pigs right means balancing their plate like you would your own supper. Five core nutrients form the foundation: protein builds muscle, carbohydrates fuel energy, fats provide warmth and shine, vitamins safeguard health, and minerals fortify bones. Miss one, and the whole system can wobble.

Nutrient	For Growing Pigs	For Maintenance
Protein	16% – 18%	12% – 14%
Carbohydrates	60% – 70%	65% – 75%
Fats	3% – 5%	2% – 4%
Minerals (like Calcium & Phosphorus)	3% – 4%	3% – 4%
Vitamins	Trace Amounts	Trace Amounts

Mind that calcium and phosphorus need to dance together in a specific ratio. Aim for about 1.5 parts calcium to 1 part phosphorus for strong skeletons and proper nutrient use. Getting this wrong can lead to lame pigs or poor growth, which I’ve seen set back a promising litter.

Never underestimate the power of fiber from hay, oat hulls, or beet pulp. Fiber is the janitor of the gut, sweeping things along and feeding the good bacteria that keep pigs healthy from the inside out. It’s a must for sows and older hogs to prevent digestive stalls.

I learned to tweak feed with the weather the hard way. One bitter winter, our grower pigs started looking a bit peaked until we added an extra cup of fat per head to their evening meal for warmth. Now, we always boost energy-rich grains and fats when the mercury dips, and lean heavier on succulent greens in the summer heat.

How a Pig’s Digestion Works

Pigs are efficient omnivores with a digestive tract similar to ours. Their single stomach and relatively long intestines are perfect for breaking down both plant and animal matter into usable energy and building blocks. This flexible system also helps explain why pigs will eat a wide range of foods to meet their energy needs. They don’t chew a cud like a cow, so their food needs to be more digestible right from the start.

Compare a pig to a chicken, and you’ll see the pig has a longer gut for better fiber fermentation. This means they can handle more roughage than poultry, but they still convert concentrated feeds like corn into meat with stunning speed. It’s this efficiency that makes them such rewarding animals to raise on a homestead.

Essential Nutrients and Their Sources

Knowing what to feed starts with knowing where nutrients hide. Soybean meal, at a mighty 44% protein, is the cornerstone for building lean muscle in growing hogs. Other solid protein sources include field peas (23-25%), fish meal, and even surplus milk from the dairy cow.

Energy primarily flows from grains and fats. Corn is the classic energy workhorse, while barley and wheat middlings offer a good mix of carbs and protein. A splash of stabilized vegetable oil or saved kitchen grease can pad their calories on cold days.

Vitamins and minerals come alive in greens and supplements. Fresh alfalfa, kale, and even a quality mineral mix free-choice ensure they get the trace nutrients that grains alone lack. Essential vitamins and minerals are key to pig health and performance. Pairing greens with a balanced mineral mix helps support growth and immune function. For life stages, piglets need a hefty 20-22% protein, growers do well on 16-18%, and mature hogs maintain on 12-14%.

Safe and Savory: What to Feed Your Pigs

With the basics covered, let’s fill the trough. Feeding pigs can be a thrifty cycle of using your farm’s surplus, but always with an eye for what keeps them robust. Here are the safe bets, organized so you can scan quick.

Grains, Concentrates, and Forages

These are the staples that form the bulk of a pig’s diet. Always crack or grind hard grains like corn and barley to help pigs access all the nutrition inside; whole kernels can pass right through.

• Corn: Roughly 8% protein. High in energy. The classic base grain.
• Barley: About 11-13% protein. Softer than corn, often fed whole or rolled.
• Wheat Middlings: Near 16% protein. A great protein booster in mixed rations.
• Oats: Around 12% protein. The hulls add fiber, best for older pigs.

Good pasture is like free feed and entertainment. Manage it with rotational grazing, providing at least 500 to 700 square feet per pig to prevent them from turning it into a mud lot. I’ve seen a well-managed paddock of clover and grass cut my feed bill by a third in summer.

Garden Goodies: Vegetables and Greens

Your garden’s extras and weeds are vitamin-packed pig delights. Most greens and roots are safe, but avoid feeding massive amounts of raw potato skins or onion family plants, as they can cause digestive upset. Next, we’ll cover pigs’ potato scraps and how cooking changes safety. We’ll also note which garden leaves are safest for pigs.

• Winter squash and pumpkins – seeds and all.
• Carrot tops and beet greens – excellent sources of vitamins.
• Zucchini, cucumbers, and cooked potato scraps.
• Common pasture weeds like dandelion, plantain, and young nettles (wilted).

Chopping large vegetables and wilting leafy greens makes them easier to eat and digest, unlocking more nutrients for your herd. I keep a bucket by the garden gate for pig treats, and they come running when they hear it clang.

Fruit Treats and Byproducts

Fruits are the sweet reward, but moderation is your guide. Limit fruit to no more than 10% of their daily intake to avoid digestive issues from too much sugar.

• Apples – cores and seeds are fine in normal amounts.
• Melons and pumpkins – rinds provide fiber and moisture.
• Berries, pears, and peeled bananas.
• Culled, bruised, or overripe fruit from your orchard – a perfect use for what won’t store.

I toss windfall apples from our old trees to the pigs each fall, but I always mix them with their regular grain to balance the meal. It’s a fine way to reduce waste and bring a smile to your own face, watching them enjoy nature’s candy.

Foods to Avoid: Keeping Your Herd Safe

Feeding pigs is one of the great joys of the barnyard, but it comes with a serious responsibility for their well-being. Knowing what not to feed is just as critical as knowing what to feed, as a single mistake can undo months of careful husbandry. Our role as stewards is to provide abundance without introducing harm, which means being vigilant about what goes into the trough, especially when it comes to feed meant for other livestock.

I’ve seen a pig get into something they shouldn’t, and the distress it causes them-and you-is a powerful lesson. It reinforces that their safety hinges on our knowledge and diligence. Always err on the side of caution; if you’re not absolutely certain about a food item, it stays out of the pen. It’s especially important to avoid toxic and forbidden foods for pigs.

Common Toxic and Problematic Foods

For a quick, at-a-glance reference, keep this list handy by the kitchen door or feed shed. These are the common offenders you need to guard against.

• Raw Potatoes & Green Potatoes: Contain solanine, a toxin that can cause serious neurological and digestive upset.
• Avocado Skins & Pits: Contain persin, which is toxic to many livestock and can damage the heart.
• Tomato & Potato Vines, Nightshade Plants: Like raw potatoes, these contain solanine and other glycoalkaloids.
• Chocolate & Caffeine: Contains theobromine, which their systems cannot process, leading to potential heart failure.
• Salty Scraps (e.g., Chip Bags, Cured Meat Rinds): Excessive salt can lead to sodium ion poisoning, a swift and deadly condition.
• Moldy Feed or Compost: Molds produce mycotoxins that can cause respiratory issues, organ failure, or abortion in sows.
• Raw Meat or Dairy (in excess): Risks introducing pathogens and can violate animal health regulations.
• Apple Seeds & Stone Fruit Pits (in large quantities): Contain amygdalin, which can degrade into cyanide.
• Rhubarb Leaves: High in oxalic acid, which can cause kidney damage and mineral deficiency.

Smart Handling of Kitchen Scraps

Kitchen scraps are a wonderful way to reduce waste and supplement feed, but they must be managed with a smart system. I learned this the hard way one summer after giving the herd a bucket of leftover corn cobs and melon rinds without a second glance. The resulting case of scours taught me that free food has a cost if you’re not careful. Here’s how to use scraps wisely.

1. Inspect Rigorously for Spoilage and Toxins. Before anything goes to the pigs, sort through it. Toss anything moldy, slimy, or questionable. Remove avocado pits, onion skins, and any bits of foil or plastic.
2. Limit Quantity to Prevent Nutritional Imbalance and Obesity. Scraps should be a treat or supplement, not the main course. A good rule is that scraps should not make up more than 10-20% of their total daily intake.
3. Always Mix with Balanced, Complete Feed. Pour those approved scraps right over their regular ration. This ensures they fill up on the protein and minerals they need first, with the scraps adding variety and enjoyment.
4. Cook or Boil Questionable Items. For items like potatoes, cooking destroys the solanine, making them safe. When in doubt, a good boil can neutralize many potential problems.
5. Feed Immediately and Clean Up. Don’t let scraps sit in the trough to ferment or attract pests. Feed what they’ll clean up in 20-30 minutes, and remove any leftovers.

This method turns your kitchen waste into a safe, enriching part of your pig’s diet. It’s the thrifty, sustainable path, but only when walked with a mindful eye on their health above all else. Your pigs will thank you with good growth and robust health.

Crafting Balanced Meals: Feed Formulation Basics

Mixing feed for pigs reminds me of my granddaddy’s old recipes-it’s part science, part art, and all heart. Getting the balance right means your pigs grow sturdy, stay healthy, and your feed bill doesn’t make you wince. Understanding the pig digestive system helps explain how different foods are processed. You need to match the meal to the mission: fast growth for market hogs, steady upkeep for breeding stock, or simple maintenance for a backyard pet.

Think of feed in three parts: energy from grains, protein for muscle, and minerals for strong bones and systems. I never skip a good mineral premix; it’s the insurance policy that keeps everything else working right. For thriftiness, look to your own land first-what you grow can cut store-bought inputs in half.

Here’s my lived experience in a nutshell:

• Young, growing pigs need a diet with 16-18% protein to build frame and muscle properly.
• Finishing hogs, those last months before processing, do well on 14-16% protein to firm up.
• A mature sow or boar just holding weight thrives on 12-14% protein, plus plenty of roughage.
• Always mix by weight, not volume, for consistency. A simple bathroom scale in the barn works wonders.

Simple Feed Ratios for Home Mixing

Don’t let feed mills have all the fun. Mixing your own lets you tweak for quality and cost. This table is my go-starting point, born from years of trial and error with my own herds. These percentages are for a complete mixed ration, fed dry.

Ingredient	Grower Diet (50-120 lbs)	Finisher Diet (120 lbs to market)	Sow Maintenance Diet
Ground Corn or Barley	70%	75%	68%
Soybean Meal (44% protein)	22%	16%	12%
Wheat Middlings or Oats	5%	6%	15%
Mineral & Vitamin Premix	3%	3%	5%

See how the protein drops as the pig matures? That’s your ticket to efficiency. For a cost-saving swap, I often replace half the soybean meal with homegrown field peas or fava beans for my sows. They’re a bit lower in protein, so you might use 15% peas and 7% soybean meal in that grower diet. It takes some math, but the savings root right back in your soil.

Incorporating Homegrown and Local Ingredients

Your best feed ingredients might be ripening in your garden or available cheap down the road. Turning surplus into swine feed is the homesteader’s version of alchemy, turning potential waste into premium pork. I’ve fed my pigs everything from cull pumpkins to extra zucchini, and they thank me for it.

Here are my favorite thrifty tips:

• Garden Glory: Dice or crush overripe tomatoes, squash, and melons. They add moisture and vitamins. I reckon a third of their daily ration can be this kind of produce without upset.
• Dairy Delight: Excess milk from a cow or goat is liquid gold for pigs. It’s a complete protein and adds beneficial fats. Pour it right over their dry feed for a hearty mash.
• Brewer’s Bonus: Call a local brewery for spent grains. They’re often free or cheap, rich in fiber, and still have nutrients. Limit it to 25% of the total diet to keep things balanced, and mix it fresh as it can sour fast.

Now, about protein complementation-this is a smart trick. Corn is low in lysine, an essential amino acid. Soybean meal is rich in it. By pairing them, you create a complete protein profile that rivals any bagged feed. You can do the same with barley and peas, or wheat and dairy. It’s how we use simple, local ingredients to build a robust diet from the ground up.

Feeding Through Every Stage of Life

Raising a pig is a journey, and their feed bucket should travel right along with them. I reckon if you feed every pig the same, you’ll end up with a barnyard full of problems, from stunted growth to poor reproduction. Let’s break down what these clever critters need from birth to breeding.

Piglets and Weanlings: Getting a Strong Start

Those first few weeks are delicate. I’ve seen a litter thrive or dive based on how we handle the weaning shift. Your goal is to ease them off mama’s milk without a hitch. Here’s my step-by-step method, honed over many farrowings.

1. Introduce a creep feed boasting 18% to 20% protein about seven days before weaning. I set a small trough in the corner of the farrowing crate so the little ones can explore it safely.
2. Provide water they cannot possibly miss. I use chick waterers with shallow basins, refreshing them morning and evening, because a dehydrated piglet is a piglet in trouble.
3. Monitor for scours daily. If droppings turn loose, I immediately mix a simple electrolyte powder into their water and slightly reduce feed for a day to let their gut settle.

This early diet is non-negotiable. That high-protein creep feed builds the framework for all their future growth, like a strong foundation for a barn.

Growing and Finishing Hogs: Fueling Growth

This is where your feed bill grows, but so does your hog. You’re walking a fine line between maximizing muscle and padding their ribs with too much fat. Protein requirements slowly step down as their frame fills out.

Start your growing hogs, say from 50 to 125 pounds, on a solid 16% protein ration. Once they tip past 150 pounds, I switch them to a 14% protein finisher mix to keep them developing without wasting expensive amino acids.

Energy management is key. On my place, I stretch grain with good pasture or pumpkins in the fall to keep their bellies full without making them obese. For a market hog, target a daily gain of 1.5 to 2 pounds. You’ll feel the difference in firm, well-marbled meat come processing time.

Breeding Stock: Sows and Boars

Your breeding animals are investments, not livestock on the clock. Feeding a sow is a seasonal dance, changing with her pregnancy and milk production. For the first two-thirds of gestation, a maintenance diet with 14% protein does just fine. In the final month, I increase her overall feed by about a quarter to support those developing piglets.

Lactation is a whole new ballgame. A nursing sow can easily consume twice her normal feed, and I make sure it’s a high-octane 16% protein mix to fuel that rich milk. Run your hand over her backbone every few weeks; it should feel like a buried rope, not a razor or a pillow.

Boars are often forgotten. Keep a mature boar on a lean, 12% protein maintenance diet and give him plenty of space to roam. A boar carrying extra weight is slow, overheats easily, and won’t be much use come breeding season.

Daily Husbandry: Putting Nutrition into Practice

All that knowledge about proteins and grains don’t mean a hill of beans if your daily routine is lacking. Good pig keeping is a gentle dance of consistency, observation, and respect, where you learn to read your animals as well as you read a feed tag. I’ve spent many a morning in the misty dawn with my coffee, watching the hogs, and that’s where the real learning happens. It’s about stewardship-caring for your land and your critters in a way that honors both.

Setting a Routine Feeding Schedule

Pigs thrive on predictability, much like we appreciate a regular supper time. A solid routine keeps them calm, reduces pen fighting, and lets you spot changes in appetite that could signal trouble. These feeding schedules lay the groundwork for sensible portion control across ages. Fine-tuning portions by age and activity helps prevent under- or over-feeding. For young piglets weaned at about eight weeks, I offer a high-protein starter ration three times a day. As they grow into feeders, you can drop to twice-daily feedings. My grown sows and boars do just fine with a hearty meal once in the morning, though I’ll split it in summer’s peak heat.

Seasons change the game. In winter, they burn more calories to stay warm, so I bump up their evening portion. Summer calls for cooler, earlier feedings to keep them comfortable and eating well. Always use a sturdy trough, y’all. It keeps feed off the ground, cuts waste in half, and makes your feed bill a sight more manageable. I’ve repurposed old rain gutters or half-round PVC into perfect troughs-thrifty and effective.

Water Intake: The Lifeline of Health

Water is the unsung hero of the barnyard. A pig can go a fair while without food, but water? That’s a daily non-negotiable. Clean, fresh water is the cheapest health insurance you can provide for your herd. A growing pig can easily drink two to five gallons a day, with lactating sows needing even more. I check and scrub waterers every single day without fail; algae or slime isn’t fit for any living creature.

Winter watering requires some forethought. A frozen trough is a crisis. I use heated base units for my metal waterers, a small investment that prevents big problems. For those real cold snaps, breaking ice twice a day and offering slightly lukewarm water can encourage drinking. Remember, if they ain’t drinking, they ain’t eating or growing properly.

Monitoring Body Condition and Adjusting Feed

Your eyes and hands are your best tools here. You’re aiming for a pig that’s firm and solid, not pudgy or bony. Run your hand along their rib cage; you should feel the ribs with light pressure, like the back of your hand, not see them staring back at you. A sow’s backbone should be a gentle ridge, not a sharp washboard. If her hips are prominent, she’s too thin.

Adjusting feed is a simple, responsive act of care. If a pig is leaning thin, increase its daily ration by about half a pound every few days until condition improves. For a pig getting too fat, which is common in less active boars or pet pigs, cut back by a similar amount. Always make changes gradual over a week to avoid shocking their system and causing digestive upset. It’s this mindful tweaking, this daily conversation with your animals, that separates good husbandry from just filling a bucket. If you encounter troubleshooting picky eaters and obesity, a few targeted steps can help refine these adjustments. The next steps will guide you through those practical pointers.

Closing Questions

How often should I feed my pigs each day?

For optimal health, feed growing pigs twice daily, while mature breeding stock can be fed once a day. Adjust this schedule seasonally, such as offering smaller, more frequent meals in hot weather to maintain appetite and digestion. A seasonal feeding guide can help tailor these adjustments throughout the year.

What are the signs of nutritional deficiency in pigs?

Watch for stunted growth, dull or bristly hair, and lethargy, which can indicate protein or vitamin shortages. Weak bones or lameness may signal mineral imbalances, requiring a review of their ration or supplementation.

Is it safe to feed pigs dairy products like milk or cheese?

Yes, dairy products are safe and nutritious in moderation, providing protein and fats. Limit quantities to avoid digestive upset and always ensure they are fresh, not spoiled, to prevent health issues.

How do I transition pigs to a new feed safely?

Mix the new feed with the old gradually over 7-10 days, slowly increasing the new portion. This prevents digestive disturbances like scours and helps pigs adapt without stress or reduced intake.

What role does water play beyond basic hydration for pigs?

Water is crucial for nutrient transport, temperature regulation, and efficient digestion. Inadequate water intake can lead to constipation, reduced feed conversion, and overall poor growth, so always provide ample clean water.

Can pigs meet all their nutritional needs through foraging alone?

No, while foraging provides enrichment and some nutrients, pigs require balanced rations for complete protein, energy, and minerals. Relying solely on pasture can lead to deficiencies and slower growth, especially in young or productive animals.

Shuttin’ the Gate

At the end of the day, all them protein percentages and feeder designs circle back to one simple thing: a watchful eye. Your best tool in the barnyard ain’t a fancy spreadsheet, but your own good sense watchin’ how your pigs move, how their skin looks, and how eager they come to the trough. A happy, healthy pig is one with a balanced belly, clean water, and a life that lets it act like a pig-rootin’, restin’, and rummagin’ in the sunshine.

I reckon that’s about all from my porch for now. I’m off to check my own drove, hear that satisfied gruntin’ as they finish up the evening’s ration. There ain’t many sounds more content than that. Thank y’all for carin’ for your animals right. Now go enjoy the quiet satisfaction of a job done well, and the good company of your four-legged farmhands.

Further Reading & Sources

• The Complete Pig Feeding Guide: From Wean to Finish
• How to Farm Pigs – Feeding | The Pig Site
• Pig Feeding Guide: Optimal Diets for Every Growth Stage